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A small warren of alleys beside the Gold Souk selling spices, dried fruit, nuts, frankincense and saffron out of open sacks.

What it costs: free to wander. Saffron and frankincense are the things most visitors actually buy.

Our advice: prices are negotiable and quality varies a lot, especially for saffron. Buy from a shop with steady local trade rather than the first vendor who calls you over.

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